PDA

View Full Version : Slide Trigger


Blakio
05-31-2010, 07:52 PM
I have an idea for a trigger design...well its more of an adaptation. I played paintball for a number of years and most of those years were spent playing with an autococker pump gun with a slide trigger. It had the SMOOTHEST trigger i have ever pulled and I was wondering if it could be adapted.

here is an animation of the trigger
http://xxxpaintballxxx.tripod.com/tech2.html

and I attached my ideas of adaptation...just food for though..I know there are a lot of speargun geniuses on here so I am curious to see what they think.
The spiral at the end of the sear is a spring.

Also I think hooking up an auto resetting line release would be fairly easy by simple lever action.

Spearo56
05-31-2010, 08:06 PM
Only problem I see is that you need to cut the wood route the slot for the rod than re epoxy it back on

Wood Guy
06-01-2010, 12:01 AM
Very interesting. Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. You probably would need a return spring on the slide since the angle where the slide contacts the rod is fairly small and the mechanical advantage when firing works against you when resetting. The rod might not push the slide back after firing. The rod would also have to be really hard at the end contacting the shaft to keep it from rounding over where it contacts the shaft.

davej
06-01-2010, 12:22 AM
wonder what kind of pressure would be on the tricker. Most mechs use two levers which greatly decrease the needed force to pull the trigger.

Blakio
06-01-2010, 02:59 AM
the spring is the key to the pressure on the trigger, that is the only thing directly putting pressure on the trigger.

*Wood Guy in the paintball guns there is a return spring on the slide, i forgot to put it in this picture.

chalkeye
06-01-2010, 04:18 AM
the spring is the key to the pressure on the trigger, that is the only thing directly putting pressure on the trigger.

Hi there, long time reader, first time poster :)

Just having a look at your trigger design, i think there will be quite a lot of pressure on the trigger. The spear is loaded up to all hell (hopefully) and trying to turn your sear lever anti-clockwise. The trigger action is directly contradicting this, trying to turn the sear lever clockwise to release it.

In the autococker mechanism there is separation between the trigger action and the force exerted on the paintball, being that it releases a sprung piston which slides a valve into place which allows the compressed gas through.

Just theorising though, I'm pretty sure the best thing to do would be build it and test it and see what happens. You could well be on to something!

Cheers

Rich

Blakio
06-01-2010, 12:07 PM
Hi there, long time reader, first time poster :)

Just having a look at your trigger design, i think there will be quite a lot of pressure on the trigger. The spear is loaded up to all hell (hopefully) and trying to turn your sear lever anti-clockwise. The trigger action is directly contradicting this, trying to turn the sear lever clockwise to release it.

In the autococker mechanism there is separation between the trigger action and the force exerted on the paintball, being that it releases a sprung piston which slides a valve into place which allows the compressed gas through.

Just theorising though, I'm pretty sure the best thing to do would be build it and test it and see what happens. You could well be on to something!

Cheers

Rich

^^^^I see your point but the hammer hitting the valve on the AC also has spring tension on it, but you dont feel that when you pull the trigger. Though the pressure from the SG bands would be far greater, I think a little longer lever could accommodate that. The spring pressure from the sear would have to be greater to push back against the band pressure, but I dont think it would have to be too much if the spear fit in the housing a little snug.

I wish I had the tools to build this but alas I do not, so I figured I would post it up and see if anyone else wanted to try it.

Spero56- that is a flaw in the design especially if the lever has to be longer, but I was thinking butting some angles on the lever could work, therefore not cutting it all the way through. like a trigger pocket size hole through with push rod depth slots for the rest of the lever. you could still route the shaft track on top with whatever you want.

Davej- I think you can consider this a 2 piece trigger mech, its just a different lever motion.

Rjlduo
06-01-2010, 12:43 PM
Interesting idea. You would have to make something to surround the top of the spear to keep it from rising off the sear. Also, I share the same sentiments as others here regarding the pressure on the trigger being too great. I think the force required to disengage the rod from the shaft notch would be too great to allow for a smooth trigger pull.

'o Cino
06-01-2010, 12:59 PM
Been working on a similar idea, and another that I modded from the UZI mech design. Just for fun stuff, at the hand filing mock-up stage, so it keeps the idle hands from getting into too much mischief.

Had another spearo poo on the ideas, but I'm going with it to see what pans out. :thumps:

I say, go for it! See what it'll do!

Blakio
06-01-2010, 04:45 PM
I am going to try...hopefully this summer

Spearo56
06-01-2010, 04:47 PM
sweep, yea seams to be a good idea, its just like anything else you will hit a few bumps in the road

3D PRO
06-02-2010, 10:30 PM
Forgive me if I'm seeing your drawing wrong, but if I'm seeing it right the pivot rod in the picture is your intire trigger mech and I'm guessing, but it looks like it is intirely housed in wood. If this is the case 1st your pivot rod is going to bend like a horse shoe the first time you hook 2 bands to the spear and probably fail. 2nd the trigger pressure will be astronomical because the spear pressure at that angle will wedge the pivot rod into a bind. These are only observations and just intended to make sure you use extreme caution when you try this.

Smudge
06-03-2010, 07:42 AM
It's been a few years since I messed with a mechanical Autococker, but from what I remember the sear pressure exerted by the hammer bolt was nothing even remotely like what the sear in a speargun is going to experience. Like, orders of magnatude different. I mean a 9volt battery operated solenoid drops the sear in my electro-mechanical Orracle Cocker...