Slippage fixes for dyneema wishbone conversion on a eruo?

[SeaRanchAbLingr]

Using a notched mako shaft in a closed muzzle Euro. The notches are nice and rounded/smooth so that you can use small diameter dyneema wishbones with them so I thought why not? Broke the metal wishbone and ran the aforementioned dyneema, now knotted on both ends through the threaded plastic plugs on the euro bands. My concern is when loaded, it just looks like it could slip off easy-the plastic plugs on the bands are pretty fat and because there is now a cord wishbone they are brought very close together. Coupled with the rounded yet very SHALLOW notches of the mako shaft, and the fact that the bands stretch to a point higher above the shaft at the muzzle instead of below it or even with it as they would for an open muzzle, I'm worried about nocks or nudges of the band/caps/plugs causing the wishbone to slip off the notch and snap me. Any suggestions/ideas?

[spearq8]

You can improve things by using a needle file on the notches to give more space for the spectra to sit. I would also try doing away with the plastic plugs and simply put spectra loops ... that works just as good and in your case less bulk can be advantageous. If your notches are smooth you can use very thin spectra for wishbones, I use 1.9mm spectra from spearitco. It is very strong and very thing, and if you feel it is wearing off it takes less than a minute to cut it off the loops and put a new one in.

Here is a picture of a biller notched shaft where I filed out one of the notches to fit the 1.9 spectra. In this particular setup I used a tight 3/4" band with absolutely no problems and the spectra lasted several fishing trips.

[allaroundhunter]

where did you find a biller shaft with a hole drilled for direct attach?

[spearq8]

Actually I think I drilled that hole, but biller does make shafts with holes in them and I think they are called the Floridian or something like that. If I remember correctly those shafts come only floppered and not threaded. To make a hole in spring stainless steel is not too difficult once you figure out how to do it. Basically you need to have a starter hole and a good cobalt bit and then use slower drilling with some cooling liquid and you should be able to go through it quite easily. I have even done it with a normal battery powered hand drill. Of course if you have that jig that keeps the shaft in place (I have seen it sold somewhere) then things are even easier. I use a light machine oil in a squirt bottle as coolant ... without it things get very hot and the SS seems to harden and destroy your bit.

[florfreediver]

Considering that you have switched to the dyneema wishbones I would perhaps go to the next step and get rid of the plastic threaded ends on the Euro bands.

Hopefully you have enough band length to cut off the threaded fittings and still be able to load the bands?

If so, tie your dyneema wishbone straight into the band material.

The Euro bands have a 1/8" bore so you should be able to insert a beaded wishbone.

That will bring your bands closer to the shaft.

IMO this would be better than grinding the notches deeper into the shafts.

Mike