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hau
06-16-2014, 07:33 PM
I need wiring help please.
I bought a 12v fishfinder and want to mount it on my yak. The fishfinder has a red, black and white wire. Instructions say, connect black wire to dc negative, red wire to 12v dc positive and white (drain) wire to "vessels RF ground point. On vessels without an RF ground system, the drain wire should be connected directly to the negative battery terminal." My battery pack is a 8pack of 1.5v AA batteries to equal 12volts, with just a red and black wire.
My question: How do I wire this fishfinder to this battery pack on a kayak and how to wire in a 5a fuse?
Thanks in advance for your help

Javimahi
06-17-2014, 07:32 AM
I can't imagine that you would get very much life out of AA batteries wired in series to make 12v, maybe a couple hours if you're lucky. If I were doing this on a kayak I would be looking for a small jetski/lawnmower/atv battery.

Anyways to answer your question, to wire that up all of the batteries would have to be connected in series with fuse between FF red wire and battery positive, then the FF white & black connected to battery negative. The white wire is probably for boats with engines in which case the propeller and drive system are subject to electrolysis.

(FF red)+ +(5A fuse)+ +B- +B- +B- +B- +B- +B- +B- +B- -(FF white & black)

hau
06-17-2014, 01:23 PM
Javimahi--Great, thanks for the advice. :beer:

What type of waterproof connectors are best in this application to join the fishfinder wires to the battery wires?

Javimahi
06-17-2014, 02:15 PM
Definitely want to use heat shrink connectors and terminals. Also you want to use wire crimpers that don't have a tooth which can break the heat shrink and defeat its purpose.

This website is great for marine electrical supply:

http://www.genuinedealz.com/wire-splice-butt-connector-w-adhesive-heat-shrink-terminal-22-18-awg-10-pack

hau
06-18-2014, 08:07 AM
Javimahi---thank you for the help sir. :toast:

To any and all who can help. Last question.
Below is a pic of my ff and battery wires. I would like to use some type of connector between the ff wires and battery wires (in my picture) that I could use to plug and unplug the ff and battery. I want to be able to plug and unplug the battery from the ff. Please to keep in mind that these connectors are on a kayak and will probably be getting wet now and then.

What is the best type of connector, in your opinion, to use?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me out.

Javimahi
06-18-2014, 09:34 AM
I guess I can help with that too :D

There are couple types of connectors that would work.

1/4" "blade" Male and Female:

http://www.genuinedealz.com/22-18-awg-heat-shrink-quick-disconnect-wire-terminal-male-5-pack

http://www.genuinedealz.com/22-18-awg-heat-shrink-quick-disconnect-wire-terminal-female-5-pack

Also available are the round bullet type connectors:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Bullet-Connectors/p_801750

I prefer the blade style, they hold better in my experience. If the round ones get loose and you try to pinch the female with some pliers they can turn to an oval and get ruined.

hau
06-18-2014, 10:34 AM
I guess I can help with that too :D

There are couple types of connectors that would work.

1/4" "blade" Male and Female:

http://www.genuinedealz.com/22-18-awg-heat-shrink-quick-disconnect-wire-terminal-male-5-pack

http://www.genuinedealz.com/22-18-awg-heat-shrink-quick-disconnect-wire-terminal-female-5-pack

Also available are the round bullet type connectors:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Bullet-Connectors/p_801750

I prefer the blade style, they hold better in my experience. If the round ones get loose and you try to pinch the female with some pliers they can turn to an oval and get ruined.

PERFECT, thank you very much for helping me. I'll be buying these tomorrow along with a 5A inline fuse and should be ready to fish with it in a day or so.
:toast:

Linghunt
06-18-2014, 03:44 PM
Those are interesting. Pretty good low cost DIY parts. I will make a note of them for future projects.

I had been using these Deutsch Plugs that come in various configurations.

http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?type=industrial&series=dt&contacts=2

These are really nice and not too expensive compared to the Military Spec Metal connectors.

Beware you do need the crimper and it's like $250. I already had one so, no cost there for me to use these.

Anyway, Food for thought for those fighting connector conductivity. -John

hau
06-18-2014, 06:01 PM
Those are interesting. Pretty good low cost DIY parts. I will make a note of them for future projects.

I had been using these Deutsch Plugs that come in various configurations.

http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?type=industrial&series=dt&contacts=2

These are really nice and not too expensive compared to the Military Spec Metal connectors.

Beware you do need the crimper and it's like $250. I already had one so, no cost there for me to use these.

Anyway, Food for thought for those fighting connector conductivity. -John

GREAT information Linghunt. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. Your post is very helpful. Much appreciated.:beer:

Linghunt
06-18-2014, 07:56 PM
Another cost effective aide is to use some grease in the connector. There are many version to choose from.

A quick search uncovered this one.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/installation-supplies/connector-grease/1145/2727/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=CP-1&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=CKj6gNnbhL8CFRRsfgod3UwAGQ

Some of the larger crimps for like 0000 AWG wire has the crimps pre-greased. Use the right grease, not whatever happens to be in your grease gun used on your lawn mower.

hau
06-19-2014, 04:40 AM
OK my helpful brothers. What do you think. Do I have this wiring correct?
Thank you

kwtony
06-19-2014, 06:54 AM
Looks good, crimp and seal her up. Maybe even try to cover the whole thing with sleeve.

There are some seriously small jet ski AGM batteries that would be perfect for this, my buddy showed up with a battery he uses on his race skis that he "hasn't been able to kill" it was literally half the size of the batteries that are used in the rental skis, (pretty sure) a higher CCA and came with a legit warranty.

My plan is to put two in each ski and put them on a switch, just like a boat....

I just messaged my friend for the info and will post them up here when he gets back with me. A good small solar panel that can be removed and tucked inside the hull would prove a good investment and keep the batts topped off. You could easily wire in a small usb plug and keep your phone/go pro cameras charged on an overnighter to the islands...

hau
06-19-2014, 11:40 AM
Thank you sir. :toast:

hau
06-19-2014, 06:58 PM
Almost last question:)
Will it hurt or damage my FF (including connected transducer) to turn it on OUT OF THE WATER for an hour?

kwtony
06-19-2014, 08:50 PM
I mean, i dont want to say yes and have you mess your stuff up. But i dont see any reason why it would matter. I know ive left my FF on doing what you ask but am unsure of the new fangled setups and if they need water or can overheat outside of it.

was your trans hot?

hau
06-19-2014, 10:24 PM
yep, got so hot before that I had to turn it off. Thats why I started this thread, to make sure that I had it wired up correctly. When it got hot, is was out in the water. I have since, thanks to help from my brothers here, redone the whole wiring using recommended connectors. After rewiring my FF I wanted to turn it on to make sure all was ok before putting it back in the yak. I realize that when I am out on the water that my transducer is OUT of the water when it is mounted inside my yak hull.
Soooo-- is it ok to turn my FF on with the transducer out of the water and on my bench to check out my wiring job?
Thanks to all here who have helped me

kwtony
06-19-2014, 10:26 PM
To test for continuity you're fine, otherwise I it's best to keep it shut off when your vessel is out of the water

hau
06-19-2014, 10:30 PM
Thanks kwtony

Linghunt
06-20-2014, 12:37 AM
The sensor getting that hot is not normal, as a person who designs stuff like that. Power draw for the heat should be minimal.

I would guess you got something broken internally or wired wrong. Looked like you didn't deal with that ground wire. I don't think that is the issue, but realize some designers out there are not so good, might be needed.

e.g. I've seen EE's designs that switch neutrals and commons. They don't understand how dangerous that is. We all know things break in time, if the live (hot) side of the switch works and the neutral or common fails open, the unit turns off, but all of the internal wiring are HOT still. The Tech not paying attention might touch it hot thinking it's off.

Tech shouldn't assume it's dead nor should he assume it was designed right.

"gets off soap box"

Who is manufacturer of your system? got a model number? a pdf of manual would be even better.

not to be picky, but it looked like your wires were like 22 AWG and the crimps for larger wire. Hopefully you folded the wire over in crimp. drop of solder post crimp works too.

Below is an example of a high current relay, Old version worked fine, the new design explodes, with same part number. Someone decided to change the internal circuit board.

Start POST #44 . This is for you electrical guys. I looked like an idiot on this one till I figured it out. Don't assume parts of the shelf are built to spec, even with the same part number.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/coil-suppression-diode-damaging-contactorsi-42544p5.html

growingupninja
10-21-2014, 08:03 PM
Re: waterproof connectors
http://www.adafruit.com/product/743
I like these so far although you need to bust out the soldering iron/butt connectors and heat shrink at the bare minimum. I built an electrical system (fuses, kill switches, deep cycle battery) using them for my roll-up, i will try to post photos sometime. I am experimenting on using them silicone filled at depth, but the have been working okay on the kaboat, which is no small feat since everything is always wet and portions of my wiring run undsr the air floor and are frequently submerged and the whole system is like a dozen conections. It runs gps/fishfinder, lights, bilge, linear actuator for the tiller...

The connectors are rated IP68, which in my spearing experience means 'splash proof'. To get the system fully waterproof took a lot of mil spec heat shrink, aquaseal, stick n seal, 18 gauge weather resistant cable, and of course big waterproof box for battery and fuses. I havent used it yet but also have a little switching power supply embedded in one of my cables with epoxy and 5200 to run the navigation lights which are only 6v.

Edit: one caveat is those connectors are not designed for serious current; the wires on them are only about 20-22 gauge, but none of my devices ever pull more than a few amps at absolute peak.

Linghunt
10-22-2014, 05:26 PM
Re: waterproof connectors
http://www.adafruit.com/product/743


Thanks for the link, Those look pretty good and low cost as well. I think I will but a couple to play with. Looks like they did some good design work on them.

Why such a low cost makes me wonder.

growingupninja
10-22-2014, 06:39 PM
Thanks for the link, Those look pretty good and low cost as well. I think I will but a couple to play with. Looks like they did some good design work on them.

Why such a low cost makes me wonder.

Adafruit's prices are really, really good. I have bought a handful of their components and always been pretty satisfied. I think they are run by people who like to tinker, and i get the sense they just order all kinds of samples from China, play around with the part and if it works they sell it probably at a low margin. They probably make more off their kits.

Let me know how it compares to your other connectors. I will post some photos of my wiring... one caution--i did have one of those that had a bad connection right out of the box, so i test them on my multimeter before commiting time and materials on them; ripped apart my system because i thought i had a short in my own work. Havent had any problems since then and they have seen hard use and i am guessing that was a freak occurence and for $2.50 I am not expexti g mil spec!