Riffe 110 Bands?

[Polystigma]

Ok so I have pretty much always had an ongoing issue with the bands on my Riffe.
The gun always seems under powered. I have purchased bands pre-tied to specs (26.5in). Still seems underpowered and I have bounced shafts off fish.

Somehow I just don't trust Riffe on their specs.
Just like the gun ranges advertised on their site.:rolleyes:

So I guess that tying my own bands is gonna be my best bet.

How do I figure out what band length I need? I know about, Bill Macs formula.
However, is there some other method of measuring for this particular gun?
It is not the x model, just the regular 110cm.

Do I go from the middle of the band slot to between the two tabs?
My shaft only has two sharkfin tabs.
Or do I measure from middle of band slot to each tab individually?

[ShootIt]

I have a 120 Euro-X and I added a 3rd 5/8ths band. also shortened all by 1 inch and it punched hole through a 70 pound fish at the end of the shooting line. if that helps...

[Polystigma]

I tried adding a 3rd 16mm band... way too overpowered. Even with my upgraded 9/32" shaft.

Seems like there is a sweet spot, right between under powered and over powered.
That is what I am trying to find.

[So Cal Shaggy]

Poly, measure from the middle of the band slot to each tab. Also I do not know what the wishbone length is on the Riffe euro but if you shorten the wishbones it may increase the punch.

[Southern Cross]

Riffe wishbones are usually quite long. Shorten the wishbones or go with 3 bands at 14mm.

[BigMako]

You have to add bands or shorten if you're using a 9/32nds. That gun and its specs are set up for a 17/64ths shaft.

[thereefgeek]

Cut off one side of the band, shorten it by an inch or so, and re-tie it. Tying bands is a piece of cake.

[Polystigma]

You have to add bands or shorten if you're using a 9/32nds. That gun and its specs are set up for a 17/64ths shaft.

I thought that may have been the issue. Stopped by Mori and he weighed both shafts. Said the difference was not significant. So that is not causing the problem.
The current bands are a mix of Mori rubber and some from Neptonics.
I think I need to make measurements (which I was confused about) and try again.

[Polystigma]

Poly, measure from the middle of the band slot to each tab.

Dont you only measure to each individual tab, when it is a muzzle with separate holes for each band?

[seacrecher]

Depends on how far apart the tabs are and how many tabs are on the shaft. If there is a significant separation,(>1") and/or more than 2 tabs, I would measure to each one. With an open band slot, just measure from the aft end of the slot to the tabs. All the bands will bunch up there anyway, once loaded.

[spearguam]

I agree with you on the stock set up being a bit underpowered. On longer shots, my shaft (9/32) seems to drop quite a bit do to gravity.

My buddy shoots his 110 with Riffe 24" bands. This seems a bit too short to me, but it works for him. He has not lost any accuracy either and the gun has been deadly.

I have shortened my own bands down to 26" and shortened the wishbones a bit. Maybe try two short 9/16 bands.

I wouldn't put three bands on this gun.

TG

[seacrecher]

I wouldn't put three bands on this gun.

TG


I agree. (2) 5/8 bands should do just fine. I think that bands around 25" with 4" wishbones should be ideal.

[ocean_hunter]

On my riffe 110, i use a a 9/32 shaft and a 5/8 band that rests 32&1/2 inches from the slot where my shaft goes into the trigger mech (sorry I don't know the length of the band) and another 5/8 band thats about 30 inches from the slot.

It's the setp that cameron kirkconnel told me too use and it works well.

But if you're looking for more power just use two 5/8 bands cut to be about 32&1/2 inches from your slot

It'll be more than enough power

[Polystigma]

2 5/8 bands is always my ideal setup. I am gonna stop by Mori and pick up some material.

Anyone ever use the "Mean Green" bulk?

[seacrecher]

Yes, it's garbage. Check into his new 15mm black rubber. It's awesome! Smoother than 5/8 but more power than 9/16. 2 bands with this stuff should be sweet.

[Polystigma]

Depends on how far apart the tabs are and how many tabs are on the shaft. If there is a significant separation,(>1") and/or more than 2 tabs, I would measure to each one. With an open band slot, just measure from the aft end of the slot to the tabs. All the bands will bunch up there anyway, once loaded.

I just measured the tabs. They are different for the 17/64' and 9/32" shafts.

On the 17/64" with 2 mini sharkfin tabs it is 4in apart.

On the 9/32" with large sharkfin tabs it is 1 1/2in apart.

So what does this mean... do I need to go with the shaft I will most use? Or tie bands specific to both shafts?

[seacrecher]

Cut your bands for the 9/32 shaft. The tabs should be farther back, and I would think that there would be less of an impact on performance for the 17/64, then the other way around.

If you go with the 15mm rubber, it falls between 9/16 and 5/8. It should perform well for both shafts.

By the way, what is the distance from the band slot to the tabs?

[Polystigma]

I measured with the 9/32" shaft.
First tab 41in second tab is 42.5in.

Did my calculations per, Bill Macs formula with 3 inch wishbones.
Came up with 22.57in for first
and 23.43in for second.

However, I did not understand the last part of his formula.

"5. This is the length of your powerband if you are using a standard 3 1/2
: 1 stretch ratio. This is a measurement of the powerband from knot to
knot. For actual rubber length, add 1" to this length or 1 1/2" in you
are tapering the ends of the powerbands."

[seacrecher]

My suggestion is this:

with the 15mm rubber, cut one length of rubber at 24" and one length of rubber at 25".

Make your wishbones 5" from knot to knot. Insert the wishbones about 1" into the rubber. Tie your constrictor knots 3/8" away from the end of the rubber. After knots are tied, pull the wishbones until they seat against your constrictor knots. Don't worry about the taper. It's purely cosmetic.

[Polystigma]

It's purely cosmetic.

I have found that when I taper the bands, it is easier to aim down the shaft.

When I do not taper them, they bunch up and block my view some.

As far as the wishbone goes. I was probably gonna buy some pre-made. Because I always have problems keeping the knot from slipping.

Probably these here. Figure I will buy them and reuse them many times.
http://makospearguns.com/details.php?prodId=94&category=10

[seacrecher]

I have found that when I taper the bands, it is easier to aim down the shaft.

When I do not taper them, they bunch up and block my view some.

As far as the wishbone goes. I was probably gonna buy some pre-made. Because I always have problems keeping the knot from slipping.

Probably these here. Figure I will buy them and reuse them many times.
http://makospearguns.com/details.php?prodId=94&category=10

OK. The reason I suggested 5" wishbones is that it puts the end of the rubber not so close to the tabs of the shaft, and opens up the sight picture just slightly. About 1/4" between the rubber if you sight down the shaft; kind of like a peep sight;)

As for the beads, they actually put more stress on the rubber and cause the rubber to crack and deteriorate faster than smaller knots. A good knot to tie for wisbones is an overhand knot with an extra pass; go one more time through the loop. Pull tight with pliers. Dab a bead of super-glue, if you are not sure. Get 20" of mori's 2.5 mm spectra. cut at 10". Tie the double over hand with 1/4" of tag line. It will come out to 5" on the money, with 1/2 the diameter of the beads, and will only cost you $0.50.:beer:

[Polystigma]

That sounds more logical. So I am gonna go that route. Gotta stop by Mori next week and get the goods.
I have not dove for bugs once this season. So I need to make up and slay alot of fish this spring/summer.
Keeping baitfish safe, 1YT at a time.:D