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All About Diving and Fishing Boats We sure love boats for what we do! This forum is for boating related discussion from engines to ladders to trailers to propellers and the list goes on and on..... |
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10-25-2007, 05:32 PM | #16 |
Deepjig
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 8
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Re: Anchoring
If you can anchor on the sand at the edge of the reef it's better for the reef and gives you a way to easily find your anchor line coming back to the boat as all you have to do is swim the edge of the reef. This calls for a danforth style anchor. For anchoring in the rocks use a grappel hook. If it gets stuck the tines will bend allowing it to come out. You can then easily straighten them with a pc of pipe. I also often dive alone and make sure the hook is securely in the bottom before proceeding. Also make sure the hitches on your boat cleat are secure as I have seen many a complete anchor line on the bottom attached to an anchor.
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10-25-2007, 05:52 PM | #17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,322
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Re: Anchoring
Quote:
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10-26-2007, 12:22 AM | #18 |
Your Daddy
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lower Florida Keys
Posts: 2,529
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Re: Anchoring
grapple.....throw it in the rocks
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REST IN PEACE : JOHNNYLONGBLADES 09/13/83-07/08/07**JLB WE WILL HUNT AGAIN IN CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER WITH 100LB GROUPER** |
10-26-2007, 11:49 AM | #19 |
Subaquatic bitchslapper
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC since day 1
Posts: 887
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Re: Anchoring
Keys,
Where did you get that anchor? I had one just like it I ordered from CA that I had to break and leave when we had a DCS on the boat. I cant find it online anymore. |
10-26-2007, 11:57 AM | #20 | |
Your Daddy
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lower Florida Keys
Posts: 2,529
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Re: Anchoring
Quote:
stan-marr commercial fishing supply on stock island sells them, do not think they have a web address though if you want to pay for it and shipping i will get it for you.
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REST IN PEACE : JOHNNYLONGBLADES 09/13/83-07/08/07**JLB WE WILL HUNT AGAIN IN CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER WITH 100LB GROUPER** |
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10-26-2007, 01:47 PM | #21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: S.E. North Carolina(Jacksonville)
Posts: 750
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Re: Anchoring
Give me a call. I build a grappling anchor almost exactly the same as the one pictured out of stainless material and with or without stainless chain.
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Tom Collins USMC, Charter Captain, RETIRED 910-455-1116 |
10-26-2007, 03:49 PM | #22 |
Lothario
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Palm Beach FL
Posts: 4,431
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Re: Anchoring
You can make your own too, for cheap: get a pipe, few pieces of reasonably thick rebar in desired "grappling arm" lenght (not too thick), insert rebar pieces into pipe, pour concrete mix into pipe, bend rebar at desired angle around the pipe. I like when rebar grappling hooks are somewhat bendable - in case anchor gets stuck you can bend them out from under a rock without diving for it.....and then bend back once on board or on the dock.
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10-27-2007, 08:38 AM | #23 |
Subaquatic bitchslapper
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC since day 1
Posts: 887
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Re: Anchoring
I have not been a fan of rebar hooks. The ones I have used get the boat dirty with rust. The stainless seems to be the call.
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10-28-2007, 12:07 AM | #24 |
Registered User
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Re: Anchoring
Hiya
Some anchoring experience from halfway across the globe!! As mentioned by others, the Danforth type anchor, which includes the Delta, Digger, Spade, CQR, etc reigns supreme over sandy bottom. For pure reef/rock the Grapnel and Admiralty anchors work best. We use VARIOUS sizes of grapnels for various spots. In shallower waters, a anchor with thinner diameter tines/flukes is better, as its easier to bend open and dislodge, should the anchor get fouled. In deeper water or water with a strong current, you need a anchor with larger diameter tines/flukes, so that it doesn't bend open on its own accord. THE most important part is your ANCHOR CHAIN!! If your achor chain is too short or too light, then you'll have endless problems with your grapnel type anchor not holding. The chain acts as a shock absorber as well as grounding your anchor so that it doesn't drag. General rule i use is that the chain MUST be at LEAST one and a half times the length of your boat. So, your 26'er should ideally have a 40' chain. Things to watch out for: as mentioned by others, your grapnel anchor should be rigged with a weak-link. (cable-tie). Should the anchor get fouled, you simply tie the rope around the anchor bollard on the boat and drive forward, causing the weak-link to break, allowing you now to pull the anchor up from the other end of the anchor. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS!!! Sometimes, especially when the wind and current has changed direction, your chain will actually get wrapped around the reef. If your chain is tangled or stuck on the reef, the only way to get it out is to dive it out!! One of my commercial mates had his anchor chain stuck and tried to drive it lose. He ended up breaking the anchor bollard from his boat and his one crew member lost 3 fingers whilst the other crew member had all his ribs smashed in!! So, please be VERY careful!! |
10-28-2007, 12:29 AM | #25 |
Registered User
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Re: Anchoring
Some tricks we use:
I have a friend who is in his 70's and simply LOVES to fish ALONE!! He NEVER takes anyone with him, prefering the solitude. Possibly one of the best yellowtail anglers i know. Anycase, he has a 18' monohull and he showed me how he operates his anchor. He uses a Danforth anchor. Chain is tied to the rear end of the anchor. NOW, he ties a second rope to the front part of the anchor. His anchor rope is red in colour and the second rope is yellow in colour. When he needs to pull up the anchor, he simply drives the boat as close as possible and the hauls in the second rope, which is attached to the front of the danforth anchor, thereby pulling it up from the reverse side!! Easy as that!! On our bigger commercial boats, we often end up anchoring up to 50 times in one fishing session. Becomes VERY exhuasting for the crew!! In this situation, we use an "UMFAAN". This is just a BIG BOUY with a BIG stainless steel D-shackle attached to it. The shackle is simple tied onto the anchor rope, allowing it to freely move up and down the whole length of the rope. Once you've anchored your boat, the bouy will also now be in the water, floating close to the boat. When you're ready to pull anchor, simply drive in some slack rope, then tied the rope off on the anchor bollard. You should now be facing the anchor, most likely also facing into the wind. Drive the boat now forward at an angle of 30degrees from the anchor, at moderate speed, like 10-14knts. You'll pass the anchor and you'll see your anchor rope passing your boat on the side. Continue driving, the bouy will dis-appear from the water surface and run all the way down to the anchor. Lets say you had 100' of rope out, drive then for at least 300'. Then stop and slowly drive back to where the bouy will now have surfaced. The bouy will now be AT the anchor and will have floated the anchor to the surface. Simply get a single crew member to pull the now floating anchor and chain and bouy into the boat. Takes less than 30 seconds to pull a 30'er's anchor like this and no strain on your crew!! Just be VERY carefull that you drive at least 20-30degree's away from the anchor when you start this manouver, as the rope must ALWAYS be away from the boat and your motors. Hope i explained this sufficieltly..... |
10-28-2007, 10:32 AM | #26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Clemente, CA
Age: 85
Posts: 39,140
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Re: Anchoring
For those in the states that are interested in the rig that Miles described, West Marine sells it.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...5&classNum=695 |
10-29-2007, 10:47 AM | #27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,322
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Re: Anchoring
ok i think i'm gonna buy one of the grapnel anchors to try out, should i get a folding one or one like the one in keyskiller's picture, or does it not matter?
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