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California Spearfishing Talk here about spearfishing on California's Pacific Coast, and post those reports and photos! |
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11-25-2010, 05:03 PM | #31 |
Alex Hughes
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Berkeley
Posts: 106
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
I more or less followed this method and produced some nice shells - although some didn't come out that well. I took lab-grade HCl at ~12M and diluted around 5-fold. Still very nasty stuff so don't take chances with this. Luckily I could use a proper fume hood at work. Coated with lacquer - I actually like the shiny look. Next time I'll try to use a pressure washer and/or soak in detergent beforehand to get rid of some of the harder calcified stuff - whether or not this can be removed seems to dictate how well the shell will come out. These will make great christmas presents, thanks for the tips!
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04-12-2014, 09:52 PM | #32 |
Power's on!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Laguna Niguel
Age: 63
Posts: 1,143
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
Thanks Kirby, one of the best Cal SB info threads ever, it deserves a resurrection.
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Dr. Craig Petersen D.C. |
04-12-2014, 10:26 PM | #33 |
><>
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: the Bay Area
Posts: 1,462
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
I personally like to go into my closet with a dremel and snort the fumes- YOLO baby
serious note: awesome post. My girlfriends father was asking me how to do this. Now I can impress him and seem smart to the 'ol lady - Boom |
04-13-2014, 11:17 PM | #34 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: HB, CA
Posts: 1,135
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
Kind of a question or thought: Is it potentially harmful to inhale the dry shell dust? Julian, chime in. Chronic cough never hurt anyone......
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Actually, yes, that yt is almost 30#'s. Hell, it's almost as big as me! |
04-14-2014, 01:58 AM | #35 | |
Help! He's got me!
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pordonone, Italy
Posts: 3,108
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
Quote:
I use a big cooler to contain the acid, rinse, slimy stuff, and work inside the cooler with the Abs on 2x4 pieces, respirator and Playtex gloves. The medical bit is...the "Ab Dust", if inhaled, will travel to the sinuses/bronchus/lungs. Some will be ejected by coughing and phlegm conveyor. Some will embed or migrate to the lower lobes of the lungs (primarily the right side) and accumulate. Silicosis is very distinct on radiographs (x-ray images)...not a good thing to find.
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Michael Dong Sportsko Ribolovno Drustvo "Umag" Centro Pordononese Sommozzatori Tank or Free, it's good with me |
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04-14-2014, 04:22 PM | #36 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: HB, CA
Posts: 1,135
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
And that would be why I posted. My friend is anal, he is very knowledgeable about many things especially shells and abalone. He is extremely detailed and careful when cleaning the abs. He has his process which includes using our friend's contained sanding blasting machine. In the attached photo the condition of the shells is due to their age and not damage in the cleaning processj. They are very, very large abalone shells.
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Actually, yes, that yt is almost 30#'s. Hell, it's almost as big as me! |
12-22-2014, 05:44 PM | #37 |
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hermosa Bch & Austin, TX
Posts: 521
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
Is there a difference between lacquer and polyurethane? Anyone have a preference?
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12-23-2014, 12:02 AM | #38 | |
My spawn kills on....
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Age: 53
Posts: 8,572
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
Quote:
Lacquers will fade over time, become chalky a little, when exposed to sunlight. Certain cleaning compounds and chemicals will dull a lacquer finish very quickly and irreversibly. Lacquer cleans up with lacquer thinner; but it leaves a chalky residue, which is extremely dry. When re-shot with a lacquer, it will come crystal clear. Oil based Polyurethanes, and true spar varnishes have very long dry times relative to lacquers. Think 2-6 hrs. of wet time, vs. 5-20 They gloss over better, and the finish is pretty impervious to almost anything you throw at them, s long as it does not stay soaking on there for a while. They clean up when wet with paint thinner, mineral spirits. These WILL yellow and age over time. Faster in direct sunlight. Water based polyurethanes, and pure acrylic enamels are the hardest finishes available. They do not yellow over time appreciably. They are almost impervious to solvents and cleaning solutions. They dry faster than oil urethanes, but slower than lacquers. (Think 20 minute to 45 minute wet times.) They clean up WITH WATER. They tend to dry perfectly clear, but lack the 'depth' of an oil based polyurethane. They gloss well, but in a 'sharp' finish, not in a 'flowing' finish. he biggest drawback is getting a spray gun which will apply it very smoothly. It tends to not always flow like an oil, and though it looks much like a lacquer, it does not wet itself to previous layers. Meaning, if you want to get a deep finish, you often have to stay set up to second and third coat within 1hr. of each other, or the coats will be layers, not monolithic, and the coats in some cases can actually not bond well when you get to final topcoats- and it's not real easy to sand an abalone shell between coats to get a better surface to adhere to. Final option is epoxy. 99% as hard as a water based urethane, all the wet time of oil urethane, the depth of oil urethane, less yellowing..... and all the complications of all 3 other topcoats with regards to clean up and working time. And..... the most expensive option. From a rattle can, lacquer is my favorite. Keep it out of the constant sun.
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Safety is but an illusion; Every grain of sand was once a mountain. Every speck of dust..... was once a man. Nothing can stop this, in time. So use the time you have well..... you won't get it back. |
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12-30-2014, 02:45 AM | #39 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 6,488
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Re: The Only Way to Clean an Abalone Shell
I have ab shells that are over 40 years old and look like new...wipe a coat of mineral oil (from drug stores) inside and outside the shell every 6 months to a year, after wiping off dust/old coating first...this keeps the pearl moist and it doesn't turn white or crusty...often, plastic and lacquer type coatings tend to turn yellow from light exposure after a few years and make the shells look odd..mineral oil is a great preservative and doesn't cause any color changes...I also dilute the muratic acid with water so it doesn't fast burn a hole in my arm if it gets splashed accidentally....well done post, by the way....
Safety tip: NEVER pour water in acid...pour the acid into water... |
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