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Repairs to Engines and Boats BOAT means "Break Out Another Thousand" to many of us. Discuss your engine and hull repairs here.

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Old 03-05-2014, 01:48 AM   #1
axl
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1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

MOVING THIS HERE FOR ADDITIONAL HELP

Hey All


Just bought a 1988 Skipjack Flybridge with a bad fuel tank and a problem diesel engine. So far I have not gotten a diagnostic on the motor but pulled the tank myself. I had to cut it out. I pumped as much fuel out as possible but there was still a good 1/4 inch of diesel in there. I discharged some old fire extinguishers into the tank crossed my fingers and went at it. Luckily no sparks from the aluminum. Next problem was the foam was soaked with diesel and appears to have damaged the wood around the tank. the fiberglass is delaminating in spots and the wood appears to be moist I am going to drill some holes to check the extent of the issue. I would love to get by without having to replace the all the wood down there the bulkheads seam to be solid although I put a cut into the smaller aft one to get the tank out. I contacted Berry's sheet metal to build the tank I just have to send him exact measurements. I am thing about going with a V bottom or belly tank. Any advice on the tank? I donít want it actually touching the bottom of the hull but am not sure how to support it? Tabs? I am definitely not going to use foam. The main concern for me is making sure the boat is structurally sound and safe.


The motor is my second concern any diesel mechanics out there? PM me or post here. It is a volvo penta AQAD41A. I need to get a diagnostic and some advice. I am not working with a very big budget so I am still considering the possibility of converting to a gas motor but not until I know for sure that this diesel cant be saved. Last owners said the motor had about 1800 hours on it when they bought it but after 18 hours of trouble free operation they noticed a lot of oil in the bilge. I have read that excessive oil blowby can be caused by a variety of issues some very serious and expensive some not. I am going to pick up a small auxiliary tank so I can run the motor. And later use the tank to hold fuel for a generator.


Also if any one has advice or knowledge about fiberglass and or stringer repair let me know. Does anyone know what matt and roving Jack used on these boats? I read 3oz. matt and 24 oz. roving I just want repairs to match. Iím sure they used polyester resin but have read epoxy is better any opinions?


I will be posting more details on the project and pictures as I go along and I am sure a lot more questions!
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:49 AM   #2
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Picked up an auxiliary tank and ran her for the first time today to my untrained ear it sounded great. She started up as fast and strong as a new gas motor it was surprising. Oil pressure settled at around 30 on idle and would throttle up to 60. The oil level returned almost to the same point after 24 hours just slightly less. I did not notice any oil in the bilge or running out of the engine. I am slightly dumbfounded by how well she ran. I only ran her for about 20 minutes and only throttled her up to 3000 rpm but she sounded strong the whole time. I am concerned because when I got the boat their was a large amount of oil in the bilge and the previous owners were warned not to run her because it could damage the engine further. They experienced large amounts of oil in the bilge after only a few hours of operation. Perhaps it will be a different story when the motor is under load but for now I need some help. I really need a diesel mechanic to come pay me a visit if anyone has a recommendation for a good and reasonably priced diesel mechanic please let me know.


I also will trade construction work for diesel work. Many other items for trade from lawn mowers to bikes to boat parts. Let me know. I also have a very clean 20 ft skippy for sale listed on BD I am only the 2nd owner and has 210 original hours super clean
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:03 AM   #3
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Here are some Pics!
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:24 PM   #4
MelbourneMark
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Sounds like a fun project.
I just replaced my fuel tank in my 17ft boat. (gas), and cutting into the tank was nerve wracking! I filled it up with water, and drained it numerous times, then cut it full of water.

You may want to check out classicmako or thehulltruth websites for boat building as well. i think there are many more boat builders on there to help with advice on the hull work.

If it was my boat; I would replace any and all wood/decking etc.. as necessary.
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:22 PM   #5
axl
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Yea it is a scary proposition

I heard aluminum wouldn’t spark and it didn’t .I also heard that discharging a fire extinguisher or putting dry ice in the tank creates CO2 which displaces O2 therefore making combustion difficult because you need O2 for fire.

Thanks for the advicce I will post on thehulltruth
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:13 PM   #6
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

I read that about alum. as well, but most power tools can spark. I was told to use air tools to cut.

Obviously, we both made it ok without air power!

There is a wealth of information on the internet for the hull rebuild and diesel repair. I wish I could help more. I know squat about diesels.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:06 AM   #7
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Do you know or reccomend any mechanics? I am in Long Beach Ca
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:55 PM   #8
415dvr
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

As a veteran of many, many of these repairs, R&Ring tanks, let me say first that you ought to go to church and then buy a Lotto ticket. Jesus H Christ!

OK you lucked out on the pulling the tank part, BUT for the next time or for those that may/will have to do it and insist on doing it yourself- drain it as much as possible and jack the boat around so the pickup, if you know where it is, is lowest. Then FILL THE TANK WITH WATER UNTIL OVERFLOWING. Then you can cut into it, but even then, there might/will be pockets of vapors that can/will ignite. So drill a few holes in the top and let the water run out of them and go at it with the Sawzall. Then go buy a Lotto ticket.

The setting off a CO2 extinguisher is called de inerting and unless you can be absofukkinlutely sure it's 100%, don't.

Your tank needs to be bonded in place, meaning tabs of a few layers of matt are bonded to the tank and hull/tank hole bulkheads/longitudnals. Before that you want to support the bottom of the tank with some foam, preferably something less friable and stiffer than styrofoam. The blue foam rigid insulation at Home Depot will work. Lay a couple strips of that onto the hull, lay the tank in and glass the tabs that the sheetmetal guy is supposed to provide you. He's built tanks before..? Then get a 5-10 gallon kit of PourFoam and pour in 1-2 mixed quarts per side/end and let it go off. You may want to screw a 2x4 over the tank to the deck to keep it from lifting with the expanding foam. Finish until the foam surrounds the tank and then replace the decking. You want to use the foam to lock the tank in place and keep a hollow spot from forming below the tank and the hull- see condensation. getting a qt of epoxy primer and painting the tank before all this is cheap insurance.

Your boat was made with polyester resin. Epoxy is great stuff but not needed here. I'd cut out the entire soaked bulkhead(s) and use them as templates for the new ones. 5/8" ACX plywood is fine. Hot coat it with over catalyzed resin and acetone 50-50 and let gell, Then a layer of 1-1/2 matt followed by 18-24 oz roving and repeat on both sides. Put two or three more strips of the blue foam over the tank to support the new deck. Cut the new bulkhead out and fasten in with strips of matt and roving and finish with cloth. Prep the new deck the same until juuust below the existing deck then finish with a matt/7-10 oz cloth.

Bottom line, it sounds like the thing dodged a bullet with the diesel not rotting the wood, it's an oil remember but if it's on ANY wood, replace that wood.
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Old 03-12-2014, 03:04 AM   #9
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Taking her out to marina tomorrow to see if she pukes. Wish me luck will report on the trip after.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:59 AM   #10
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Took her out on the water to see if the engine would puke oil from the crankcase filter and she ran great until 3200 rpm at that point oil starts to pool and then rises to the point that it spills out of the vents in the filter.

I will post more soon.

She handles really well though aside from that.
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:33 AM   #11
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Does this Volvo have a steel oil pan? You might consider this as the reason for oil in your bilge.
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Old 03-21-2014, 12:41 PM   #12
415dvr
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

"Oil starts to pool." Where?
Oil puking from the vent(s) can be a few things and can be as cheap as plugged filter(s) to as expensive as the high pressure oil pump. You're going to be money ahead, if that's even possible with a boat, if you just call in a knowledgeable mechanic who will after a inspection and run-up, tell you what's up. You can chase this shit for weeks and thousands of bucks by yourself and the other internet geniuses.
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Old 03-21-2014, 02:30 PM   #13
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

Your best source of information is a subscription to boatdiesel.com
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:40 AM   #14
axl
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

sorry for the lag. I found issues with the stringer the wood foreword wood was non existent and the wood midship was saturated with diesel so i switched to my focus to attack that issue.

I had the fuel injectors rebuilt. I also ordered new O rings for the system that feeds the rocker arms with oil. It is a low pressure system but I have read post where people have solve their excessive oil pooling in the crankcase filter by replacing these O rings.

I am waiting on a compression test. The odds are against me but i figure i would start with the $1.67 fix and while the injectors are out rebuild them.
when the crank case filter is off the oil pools in the cavity where it screws in and eventually overwhelms the filter when it is on and profuse out of the holes.vents in the filter.

Ill post some more pictures soon.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:35 PM   #15
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Re: 1988 25 ft Skipjack Flybridge PROJECT

So I had a diesel mechanic come out and diagnosis the issue. According to him it is the number #3 that is the culprit it is because the injectors were never serviced which lead to the #3 injector to become damaged and to dump extra fuel into the cylinder and over heat there fore causing the cylinder and piston to expand and contract possibly breaking a ring or otherwise. He says the piston is pitted.
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