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Repairs to Engines and Boats BOAT means "Break Out Another Thousand" to many of us. Discuss your engine and hull repairs here.

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Old 01-05-2016, 10:00 PM   #16
Scubapilot
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Habo
Likely the culprit is the electric motor mounted on top of the trim and tilt assembly , which is located under the engine. We change these regularly due to corrosion and water intrusion. It is simple enough to test. You or your "technician" (makes us feel smart and important), will disconnect the wires from the relays to the motor under the cowl and test motor with a 12 volt power source.
These are great little motors and usually well worth the fix.
Sorry it took so long to answer you back. I made a snap decision to take a four week motorcycle ride in Mexico during December and just got back a few days ago. 5200 miles of good living......
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:57 AM   #17
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Thanks Scubapilot. Just so happens that I finally decided to get it "looked" at and the Mechanic(technician) showed up YESTERDAY. We found exactly what you said. We did not find corrosion, but the trim motor was definitely spent. Getting new trim motor put in today.

That MC ride sounds pretty incredible. I ride too, but I am not an IRON BUTT guy. Thanks
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:06 PM   #18
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Hello, I have a question for you, small fry 2015 Tohatsu 6hp 4 stroke, bought new. (Sorry for the novel I am writing)

Engine has probably 150 hours, goes on my kaboat (basically a 14' inflatable kayak with a transom), gets the carb run to a stallout in a big tub of fresh water after every use, and probably has never sat in the garage for more than 10 days and for 8 months out of year gets used at least weekly. Inland fuel only, treated always with Stabil and usually Seafoam too.

I run the thing probably as seriously as any 6hp has ever run, WOT logging easily 30 miles coastal each use as well as a few Catalina Island runs (28ish miles from the mainland). I try not to do stupid stuff for sure but really the only reason I won't go out is if it so rough that I can't see underwater or anchor to dive, using a 25# kettle bell... Plenty of times I have had to run the boat wearing my dive mask to see.

Typically starts easily, runs like a champ except sometimes after some hours sputters and dies (sounds like fuel starvation). Always starts right back up but once this happens I usually have to throttle down, and it gets progressively worse until I can't do more than idle. Loves to do this when I am midchannel and it is getting rough. This Sunday like clockwork I was coming back from Anacapa and it started getting fussy except wouldn't start except after about 20 pulls and only run for 30 secs at a time. What with the growing wind pushing us out to sea and all I had to call a vessel assist.

I have disassembled and soaked the carb in either seafoam or chemdip FOUR times in the last year, as well as run seafoam through all the fuel lines then blasted them with compressed air. Spark plug and fuel filter has been changed TWICE. Drained and cleaned the external tank three times. Every time I do this the parts are sparkly clean before I begin (except first time the plug was unusually dirty according to the tech who I paid $90 to start it up and proclaim it ran like new, which it always does except when I need it most).

Before the last run I had chemdipped the carb, cleaned all fuel lines, changed oil, plug, and fuel filter. I know 90% of the time this stuff is carb related but...just saying..

Anyway the tow guy was smart and he goes to work when the sea is rough. He suggested maybe it was water in the carb since it seems to happen when the sea is rough and my vessel sits so low. Engine cowl is not designed to be particularly water tight, just to drain fast, when I get it home, take the cowling off and rinse the powerhead it is frequently got dried salt all he way up on the flywheel... The guys at the shop keep telling me it is designed for all weather and shouldn't be bothered by waves breaking over the boat but most people are using this size engine either a long shaft on a sailboat or as harbor tender.

I am also wondering if the salt water is causing an electrical misfire? I rinse the power head with freshwater while engine is running in the driveway no prob but fresh water wouldn't cause shorts the way ocean water would.

Thinking about plugging the holes temporarily with hot glue, starting it up in the driveway, taking off the cowling and spraying with brinewater to see if that is the problem, and/or casting silicone plugs or baffles to try and keep water from splashing up into the intake from the drain holes when I come down off a wave? I am not a gifted mechanic but I know about waterproofing electrical.. If that thing is relying on just heatshrink and dielectric grease there is almost certainly saltwater getting somewhere...?

Again, sorry for the wall of text but if anyone has experience that would shed some light I'd appreciate it!
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:24 PM   #19
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Okay, so yep, the fault is seawater/electrical related. Mixed up a 5 gallon of very briney water and set it aside. Put the engine in the big rinse tub and started it up, let it get good and hot, then started playing around with a garden hose, bucket of salt water, and spray bottle of saltwater.

When saltwater hits the spot where the rubber hose connects to the spark plug, it sputters and dies, then usually starts right back up afterwards. Doesn't take much water either, just a little touch from the spray bottle. But with freshwater I can run a hose on it no problem, and if I actually dump buckets of fresh water on it, it'll sputter a bit while the part is submerged but quickly recover.
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Old 04-02-2016, 07:58 PM   #20
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Finally got around to replying on my OMC on the Sea Ox 180 re: advancing idle. You were spot on regarding the carbs and fuel. I ran it down to zero fuel, changed filter, added Seafoam and carb cleaner. Cleaned carbs manually. Old girl runs like a top and idles beautifully. At first started a little hard but now is fine. Thanks!!!
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Old 04-02-2016, 08:56 PM   #21
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Scubapilot,

Great intro! love the avatar haha

I know you are getting bombarded with questions and I am in no hurry for an answer as I have been dealing with this issue for OVER A YEAR NOW. Nobody I have taken the boat to can seem to fix it. I keep spending and spending and each time I hear "I think we solved your problem" first test run out and it does good at first but eventually goes right back to what it was doing before. I have taken it 3 different places with no avail so maybe you have an idea of something I could try.

Motor: 1998 115hp Yamaha precision blend

What the boat is doing:

Cranks up no problem. Idles on trailer and in water no problem. can put it in gear and idle around in marina no problem. when I get out of no wake zone and give it some throttle, as soon as it gets under load it wants to bog down and try to shut off. HOWEVER, if I hit the electric choke when it starts to bog down it throws "more power" to it and it will then take off. it seems to do it between 3-7mph. Once I hit the choke and it jumps past the part where it wants to bog down it will run like a new motor from about 8mph to WOT and wil run anywhere between those speeds flawlessly all day long. as soon as I stop the boat and start to take off again I have to give it throttle until it starts to bog, quickly hit the choke while giving it more throttle and then it will take off. if I don't give it choke when it starts to bog it will cut off. again, it will sit in idle all day no problems. it will run at any speed all day with no problems past 8mph. it seems to be just when I put it under load is when I have the problem. even driving it on the trailer is a pain in the ass sometimes cause when I put it under load trying to drive it on the trailer it wants to bog down.

What I have done, and what mechanics have done.

1) Replaced complete fuel line from tank to motor incase there was a pinhole leak somewhere.
2) Rebuilt the carbs/cleaned injectors
3) Changed spark plugs and wires
4) Replaced the pump diaphragm
5) Replaced the priming bulb

Have always used fuel stabilizer religiously in every fill up.

Do you know of anything I could possibly try to help? Have you seen this problem before? If so what was the fix???? its been so long since I haven't had to deal with the bogging that I have about just got accustomed to going through the motions as if that's how your supposed to run one now
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Old 04-22-2016, 07:17 PM   #22
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Help Please Scuba Pilot!
2004 Suzuki 225 starboard motor tilt/ trim switch at the binnacle works the motor down all the way but only raises it up 2/3 of the way. What's my plan assuming it needs something short of replacement.
Thanks!
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:23 PM   #23
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

Sounds like a lack of fluid in one way or the other. Air leak? Have you primed it?
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:56 PM   #24
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

I have a 2001 Mercury 200 EFI back in Oklahoma that I need some powerhead work on. I am hoping to find a matching counter rotating engine to ship out to the Bahamas to replace the 150 Optimax engines I currently have. Is this something you may be interested in? If so email me at slpcomputer at yahoo dot com.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:29 PM   #25
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Re: 30 Year Boat Yard Owner / Technician

I have a 1985 Seaox 180D powered with an OMC 1.3 L Sea Drive. Binnacle will not shift into gear. When placed into neutral the throttle travel is fine. The engagement shaft slides up and down fine but when in slot on the gear shifting ring it won't rotate and will pop out if moderate force applied. I did take off the binnacle mounting plate awhile back to install a new VHF antenna cable but used it once fine before this current problem. Advice or direction please.
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