Splicing: What size fid tool for spectra?

[bward]

When using spectra instead of cable on a slip tip, what size "fid" tool do you use to do the splice?

[Stareed]

FID LENGTH DEFINITION
The “fid length” for a rope is calculated as 21 times the rope diameter. As the rope diameter increases, so does the fid length. For example the fid length for a 4" diameter rope is 84".
As for diameter, that stuff is so small you will need something like a sailmakers needle. If you use a needle will need to grind the tip off so that it is nice and round, you dont want it to catch on any of the strands when you are tucking the tail through the core of the standing part.
If you go to http://www.samsonrope.com/splicing-instructions.cfm there are instructions on how to splice rope and videos to go with them. Most of the instructions are referring to larger scale line but they are the same for any size.
HB

[Bill McIntyre]

I've really got to take some better photos to show how this is done, but I'm going to try to go with what I have for now. If you are still confused, I'll try again tomorrow with new photos.

In the photo of the Wong tip, you can see that the Spectra goes around the pin in the slot, then is threaded back inside itself. So you should start with a piece of Spectra twice as long as the finished product and pass it around the pin with an equal length on each side. I have used two methods to get it back inside it self. The way I used to do it was with a ball point pen refill. Stick the Spectra into the hole, put some Scotch tape around it to keep it from coming out, then insert it into the side of the Spectra and pass it down the hollow center. The photo shows it coming back out soon, but in your case you could keep shoving it down the center until it got to the end.

The other method that Mori uses, and now I do too, involves a very thin piece of wire. In the photo, notice that there is a very narrow loop at the top end. The big loop at the other end is simply something to stick a finger into for pulling.

The thin wire loop is inserted into the side of the Spectra at the rear end and carefully threaded up through the hollow center, then stuck out through the side right next to the pin. The end of the other side of the Spectra is stuck through that narrow loop, pulled inside, and then down through the center so that you end up with a doubled piece.

The other photo shows it very crudely. Imagine that the pen is the pin in the slot in the tip. Notice that the wire was inserted into the Spectra near the right side of the photo, run up through the center, and is sticking out of the side. The bitter end of the other half of the Spectra has been inserted into the narrow wire loop and is about to be pulled into the center and down to the other end. Its going to have to be pulled far enough to tighten that big loop around the pen so that there is hardly any slack in the loop, and it is tight around the pen.

All that remains to run the doubled line through the small hole in the slide ring and tie a double overhand knot in it.

I know that makes hard reading, but I'm exhausted from a day of fruitless diving and my eloquence may be suffering. If you have questions, I'll try to do better.

[bward]

Thanks again Bill.

[Stareed]

Bill why is it necessary to pass the tail of the eye splice all the way through to the end of the standing part of the line? I noticed with my Wong slip-tip which was done that way and wondered why, I am assuming there is a good reason.
Thanks
Hulsey

[Bill McIntyre]

Originally Posted by Stareed

Bill why is it necessary to pass the tail of the eye splice all the way through to the end of the standing part of the line? I noticed with my Wong slip-tip which was done that way and wondered why, I am assuming there is a good reason.
Thanks
Hulsey

I think its so that you have a doubled length so that its harder to cut.

Of course strength is still limited to a single strand around the pin, but the reas of it is hanging out where it can be cut on bones, gill covers, and rocks.

[bward]

Would the braided kevlar line be more resistant to being cut by bones, gill covers, etc? Any experience with this line?

http://www.spearitco.com/index.php?m...209346f60d6254

[Bill McIntyre]

Originally Posted by bward

Would the braided kevlar line be more resistant to being cut by bones, gill covers, etc? Any experience with this line?

http://www.spearitco.com/index.php?m...209346f60d6254

As I understand it, the key with those lines is

Kevlar® braid over parallel core

I think that means that its not hollow, and not braidable.


I have a lot of 3 mm and 2.5 mm Spectra that I got from Mori to use as reel line. It has a Dacron braid over Spectra filament core. It doesn't matter whether the braided sheath is Spectra, Dacron, or Kevlar. It has a core rather than being hollow, so there is no way to stick it down the inside of itself.

Think polypro ski rope. It's a braid with a hollow core, so you stick it down inside itself.

[jfjf]

Also may be useful

http://makospearguns.com/instructional_info_rsc.php

['o Cino]

It might be a superstition of mine, but I finish the splice (same as Bill demo'd) with a drop of Super Glue at the initial pass-through where the loop is made at the pin. Results in zero creep.

[Hank49]

Not to derail the thread, but why use spectra and not steel?

I'm asking because I saw Daryl W use steel shooting line, with a spectra slip tip line when he's going for those big uluas in holes. I actually had one tear the spectra resulting in lost fish.

[njspearo]

stainless steel frays and kinks, spectra doesnt.